John C. Spence (Courtesy Barry Lamb)

Born in 1809, Spence was never certain as to whether or not his chronicles would ever be read by the eyes of the public, but his profound sense of history and duty led him to write regardless of potential publication.

Spence’s journals were discovered in the attic of one of his descendants in Natchez, Miss. Though the journals were more than 100 years old at the time of their discovery, they remained fully legible.

His chronicles present a comprehensive picture of what Murfreesboro was like in its earliest years and follow its growth until years after the end of the Civil War.

His Annals of Rutherford County, volumes one and two, and his diary of the Civil War are extensive and eye opening.

Local historians say Spence’s writings are both historical and relatable to the average reader, exploring a side of Murfreesboro outside of the political realm.

Instead, he looks at the people – their lives, their interests and their eccentricities. Here’s a sampling of his observations:

On the settlement of Middle Tennessee
“At an early time, the portion of country called Middle Tennessee, a settlement, was attempted by a hardy set of adventurers, who were willing to forego the perils and dangers incident to a pioneer life, making sacrifices for the general good . . . Hearing of the French claim, which embraced a large section of country along the Cumberland River, of which a settlement was made,

early as the year 1714.” According to Spence, the town grew, with

its farmer-residents growing large crops of corn, cotton and tobacco.

Initially, the town was called Cannonsburgh, but in 1811, the name changed to Murfreesborough, the spelling of which later changed to the present-day Murfreesboro.

On the creation of Murfreesborough
“An Act. That the name of the town of ‘Cannonsburgh,’ in the County of Rutherford, be changed to that of Murfreesborough, which shall be forever called, and known by that name. Passed Nov. 19, 1811. “The name given in honor of Col. Hardy Murfree of N. Carolina, a solider of the Revolution, who had rendered valuable service. Col. Murfree, the owner of a large tract of land in the vicinity, which he subsequently offered a portion to the Commissioners, the purpose of establishing a town

thereon.” After establishing the name of the city,

life continued to change for Murfreesboro citizens, according to Spence. Religion was an important aspect of life in Murfreesboro, but it was not in the style known today. Instead, the beginnings of the churches were humble, many without pews, and the greatest portion of Murfreesboro citizens were Baptist, Spence notes.

On the Baptist congregations
“The buildings were primitive in style and appearance, no pretension in making a display . . . benches without backs, for the accommodation of the people. A plain, planked pulpit, six or eight feet long, open at the end.

“Until these churches were established, appointments were made at private houses, or in groves. People riding quite a distance to hear preaching, acting soberly and discreetly during the stay.”

According to Spence’s estimation, the county was not religious, in fact, in the year of 1813, the first execution took place in a public arena. This first public slaying was that of an African-American, tried and condemned for his crime, breaking into the house of Murfreesboro citizen B. Ward.

On a public execution
“[The execution] took place Sept. 5, 1813, at Murfreesboro in the presence of a large concourse of people, it being the first case of the kind since the settlement of the county . . .The novelty created a sensation among the people generally. They came from far and near to see the sight. Men, women, and children in wagons and carts.

“The citizens watched as the man was hanged for his crime. Afterwards, the superstitious tried to secure a piece of the rope used during the execution. Supposedly, carrying a piece of the noose would provide healing for specific incurable diseases. Receiving a piece of the rope was considered a prize, worthy of a fair price,” Spence writes.

On the failure of the banks
While the United States was dealing with the repercussions of great national spending from the War of 1812, Louisiana Purchase, and inflation, the Panic of 1819 followed.

Murfreesboro also suffered.

“The bubble had at last exploded, throwing everything into confusion. . . Many bankrupt, owing large amounts to the people of the country, unable to pay... It was several years before the town and country recovered from the effect of the failure.”

After the town and country had recovered, there were still some struggles among Murfreesboro citizens. These disagreements were not necessarily related to financial disputes, but were just fights to resolve disagreements of various kinds between

two parties. Spence recounts the style of fighting, ring fighting, that was used to resolve disputes. Certain people who claimed to be especially superior at fighting were known as “Bullies.”

Fighting in the ring
“The usual custom, to strip off to the buff, except the pants with suspenders tied round the waist. . .When opportunity offered either, they clinch and scuffle to throw the opponent to the ground, pounding and punching each other in a vigerous (sic) way until one of the other cry out ‘enough.’ ”

Night on the town
Another form of amusement for Murfreesboro citizens was theater. Visiting theater performances was so popular that a permanent theater was established in a onestory brick building on the corner of Church and Vine Street.

Amusements were a huge part of Murfreesboro life. In addition to theater, there were several different types of entertainment.

“... in the absence of theatres, they were at times entertained by the visits of lion, and at times entertained by the visits of lion, and monkey shews (sic), a juggler or slight (sic) of hand men, Punch and Judy puppet shews, walking the slack wire and rope. This was wonderful. The monkey jack dressed, riding a Shetland pony. This was a feat of rare fun for men, wells as the boys. For any of these a quarter passed off freely.”

House of homicide causes a panic
During the summer of 1821, an interesting, yet, unfortunate occurrence took place in Murfreesboro. A house was killing people. This murderous house was located near the Sulfur Spring and claimed two victims

on separate occasions. “A flash of lightning come passing in at

the door to the chimney place, which [Samuel C. Rucker] was stricken, killing him immediately, doing little damage otherwise, more than tearing off a small portion of the mantle board.

A fiew (sic) years after, a family Dickson, living in the same house. . . Miss D. was sitting near the fireplace. Lightning come down the chimney, striking and killing her suddenly... fiew (sic) are willing to risk living in the house. It was afterward taken down.”

Cholera comes calling
In 1835, cholera, a disease that is caused by eating and drinking contaminated food and water appeared in Murfreesboro.

“During the summer, the dreadful scourge cholera visited the town, spreading terror and death among the cities. Its stay was

short, yet it swept off a large number of citizens.”

This particular cholera visit claimed the life of Gen. William Brady, one of the town’s first lawyers, who was a candidate for Congress at the time of his death. The townspeople greatly feared the disease and for a period of time, many businesses closed their doors and citizens dwelled quietly in the hill country.

Doctors made frequent house calls, barely getting a moment’s rest during the cholera outbreak, which killed many and thinned the town’s population. It was devastating despite the short time span, Spence writes in his diary.

On political discourse
In the early 1800s, most Murfreesboro citizens were largely ambivalent about politics. Conversation focused not on political ideologies, but rather history, poetry and the arts, he notes.

“Politics little known in the country by the common people... as to the election of the President, they were generally indifferent in that matter... having little effect in rousing their feelings to action... Perhaps this may be attributed to the want of newspapers to fire up the mind of the people. Papers were limited in the country, they were not paper reading people...”

But by 1856, interest in politics began to swell in the county. The townspeople were focused on the upcoming election between Millard Fillmore and James Buchanan.

Murfreesboro citizens did whatever they could to support a candidate whether it was stump speaking, hosting barbecues or a

torch light procession. This eager nature could be seen even

more clearly during the election of 1860. The majority of Murfreesboro supported John Bell – a Tennessee native. To garner support for their candidate, a barbecue was held in his honor. Despite their best efforts, the candidates supported by southerners split votes and Lincoln was voted in as President. The Civil War followed soon

after. At this point in Spence’s life he created a

diary specific to the dealings of the Civil War.

The Civil War raged on for several years, but the bloody battles of war came too close to home for Murfreesboro in December of 1862 and the first days of 1863.

The Battle of Stones River raged for four days in Murfreesboro. Confederate Gen. Braxton Bragg led his team against Union Gen. William S. Rosecrans.

“Both officers and men, equally determined to do their duty, would rush forward to battle lines, warring first the one then the other in the deadly strife,” Spence writes of the battle.

The Battle of Stones River in Murfreesboro was one of the bloodiest – with more than 24,000 dead, wounded, missing in action or captured – among the highest percentage of casualties in any Civil War battle.

But by Jan. 4, 1863, the fields were clear and pleasant.

Little evidence remained on the battle besides doctors tending to wounded soldiers and a small Confederate cavalry unit remaining in the city.

The war continued on for two more years finally ending in 1865.

After the Civil War, Murfreesboro tried to resume life in a normal fashion. Business had an influx of workers once again and in-

dustrialization was becoming even more prevalent in Murfreesboro.

The KKK arrives
Spence also writes about the Ku Klux Klan, a prevalent force for a short period of time.

“The usual appearance of the ‘Kuk-Klux,’ (sic) on horseback at night, collected in a large body, dressed in long white gowns or shrouds, reaching down over the legs, a tall hat constructed of paper or other light material. The faces masked, giving the idea of graveyard inhabitants...”

Spence notes that some believed the organization was designed to frighten off newcomers to the area after the war, but after a short period of time, the nature of the organization proved to become more sinister and lawmen eventually abated them.

Spence’s annals continued until 1870.

His descriptions of Murfreesboro are broad, yet intricate – detailing incidents from small fights, to court elections at the beginning of each year, to specific interesting events.

He concluded his annals with a final summary description of the Rutherford area and a note to the “friendly reader.”

“It has been the desire of the writer to give a correct detail of matters and things the past seventy years... the style is not polished character that would please the fastidious reader. The writer, feeling satisfied, many will read from curiosity... the author having the satisfaction of knowing he’s spent many pleasant hours reflecting over the past. Adieu friendly reader.”

Spence’s annals are a vital portion of Rutherford history.

His work provides new information and insight that allows citizens and visitors to see Murfreesboro as more than a city – but as a thriving, living character.